It was early morning still when we peered down the streets of Siem Reap in search of a tuk tuk to take us to Angkor Wat. The streets were quiet and deserted, save one lonely driver who tried his luck at four in the morning and found us, two young South Africans in the mood for love and adventure. We boarded his motorised carriage with fear and exhilaration, and spent the next three days in the company of a wonderful tour guide of Cambodia. We saw the sun rise over Angkor Wat, and later we saw children play where Lara Croft herself kicked ass once upon a time. It doesn’t get better than this, he said. And by golly he was right.